Making the crossing back to Spain although only 1.5hrs became an all day affair. Up early to make sure we arrived with plenty of time for the supposed 11am crossing. First duty was to use the last of our Dirham on petrol, achieved after doubling back after passing the last petrol station (20 miles from the port). We arrived and after some confusion regarding which gate we needed we were advised to take our ticket into the big Gare Maritime office and get a confirmation at the desk (oh damn the boat is 12noon apparently). Confirmations in hand we entered and promptly drove straight past the police that needed to do our exit documents and passport (it would have helped if they didn't have their window closed and if they made any reaction as we drove up). I here some whistling and I say to Nicky is that at us? is it the Police? and sure enough I had to back up. No dramas though and pleasant guys (also only one tout in the Gare so easy as). Next step the customs guys who take your vehicle importation documents and do their stamping and signing and we are on to the vehicle scanner. Once positioned we have to wait for 2 other vehicles to arrive to fill the bay and then the big truck scanner goes to work and again a clean bill of health. Now down to the gate number 7 second last. Had to stop for 2 attendants on the way to check our confirmations and guide us to gate 7 (although you'd have to be blind Freddy to miss it, unlike Algeciras where a certain level of detective skills were required and there were no guides). Cool second in line and about 2 hours to wait, no worries one last go with the internet (going to miss our Dongle). Unfortunately as someone else said ferry times in this part of the world are purely aspirational (and they appear very low on aspiration). So 12 came and went and we still hadn't been loaded, got on about 12.30 but the ferry still didn't depart until 1.20pm so a full 4 hours after arriving at the port, sigh. We arrived in Spain and realised with the time zone change we had lost another hour and it was nearly 4pm and passport control to get through and down to the supermarkets at Los Barrios to get all the things we have missed in the past 3 months. By the time that's complete the day is pretty well done and it has been pretty much entirely devoted to getting from Morroco to Spain (with only about 40 miles of driving).
The next day we returned to the supermarkets and looked at costumes for the Cadiz Carnaval. We had been thinking about how we could make a costume from things in the van but when we were in Carrefour we saw a pair of Native American Indian outfits we thought would work. We also got a chief headdress for me. Then it was off to get LPG and our first tourist stop Vejer de la Frontera. The van was put to the test on the climb up to the town, I think we came in the steep way. They had a little tourist office which was handy as we picked up a town map. Armed with this map we took in the towns main features in about 1 hour. Then we continued to Conil de la Frontera where we had planned to spend the night at the local motorhome dealer, unfortunately due to siesta when we first arrived they were closed, so we spent an hour down in Conil, on the beach and around the waterfront. Back to the dealers and someone was there so we could buy the toilet chemical we needed, dump and refill waters but unfortunately the manager was going away for the weekend to a campervan festival so we couldn't stay. Which was a bummer as it looked spot on, electric and wifi for only 7 euro. We ended up using Playa de Castillo near Cadiz and had to rethink our Cadiz Carnaval strategy.
Vejer
Conil
The new strategy ended up being to stay at Las Dunas camping at Puerto Santa Maria and take the ferry across to Cadiz. We dressed up in our costumes but it seemed a bit premature on our part as Friday seemed to be more for the kids. Also we were having a devil of a time understanding the programme (all in Spanish). We did manage to catch the finale of a childrens show. We just can't adapt to the Spanish system of doing everything so late, everything didn't start until after we would be in bed, so we walked around looking at the sights of Cadiz before heading back to the campsite so we could rest and make a bigger effort the next day.
So on Saturday there were many more people in costume and everything was looking a lot more promising. Unfortunately for the second day running we missed the ferry we wanted while in the queue to get tickets. This time it was very much their fault. This is pretty much the biggest day of the year for them and they still only had two girls selling tickets (there are no automated machines) and they were having to work out of one ticket window. So the queue moved very slowly and as a result the boats were leaving only half full while dozens of customers were stranded in the ticket line. Our boat loaded then sat at the dock for about 12 minutes and during that time we think only another 12 people managed to get on. Worse was to come as the crossing was very choppy and Nicky and I ended up clinging on to the rails trying to get fresh air. We were decidedly secondhand when we got there (strangely we seemed to be the only ones, maybe the Spanish have great sea legs). We vowed to do our utmost to get the train back that night even if it involved an hours walk to get to the campsite. Sufficiently recovered we made our way to Plaza de Candelaria where we found our interpretation of the programme correct, something was going to happen. They had these chorus groups all dressed up, about a dozen with various guitars and at least 2 dozen singers. They were entertaining and would have been more so if we had understood as they weave a fair bit of comedy into the performances. After a bit of that we went over to Plaza San Antonio where the main stage was but nothing was happening there so we stopped in at the Museum of Cadiz. Then we decided we had enough time to check the train schedule. By this time many people were arriving into town off the trains and many were still arriving when we caught the 22.10 train to go (we didn't get back to the van until midnight - on Spanish time the party was still beginning). More failed interpretation of the programme followed but then we went to the Plaza de la Cathedral which was teeming with costumed revellers, pretty much drinking heavily and being generally rowdy. The side streets in this area were getting pretty dire and it wasn't even 8pm and large puddles had formed which were nothing to do with water. So our final fling with Carnaval was to go back to the main stage for a show due to start at 8.30pm. We managed about an hour but standing in a packed crowd not understanding a word of a comedy routine that was all we could manage as we were pretty tired and Nicky had a sore back. So 2.5hrs from Plaza to campervan (nearly 2 hours walking) and we were shattered, decided it was good that we did it but it just wasn't our idea of fun.
Chorus singers
Lights at Night
People beginning festivities in the Plaza de Cathedral
A very sound sleep was had and the next morning saw us moving on to Seville, via the bullring in Puerto Santa Maria (supposed to be the oldest I think), where we arrived at the camperstop and found it was there and open and the anticipated price, result. Seville had a camperstop run out of a car logistics yard. It was basic but affordable for a inner city site although you had to walk to town as public transport didn't go close. Fortunately that side of Seville is totally dominated by a giant park walk Maria Luisa which was developed in 1929 for an Ibera American exhibition, so some of the walk is pleasant. The park brings you up to the area with the Alcazar and Cathedral and continuing past this you head into the Santa Cruz district. Seville has a large navigable river running through the centre so there are port activities as well. Nicky and I both found Seville a very agreeable city and a surprise as neither of us knew anything prior to visiting. We pretty much just spent 2 days trooping around as we only went into the Alcazar at 4pm on Monday, for about 1 hour, as it was free then saving us 20 euro (many other people had the same idea, including guided tour groups). It was rather manic inside at times with people and groups rushing around trying to see as much as possible before closing. Our other planned visit the Archaeological Museum was curtailed as it was closed for some reason.
In Maria Luisa Park
Plaza de Espana - also in the Park
Cathedral
Golden Tower
Triana suburb
Bullring
Alcazar
We were very pleased that we made one last stop before heading for Portugal and this was the ruins of the Roman city of Italica (just outside modern day Seville). The ruins that are on display are of a city expanded by the emperor Hadrian (of Hadrian's Wall fame, remember the campsite we worked at :-)). Hadrian's father came from Italica. There are many mosaics on display in situ, a baths complex and an amphitheatre. There are a lot of area being saved to excavate in future generations which is good. That afternoon we drove a couple of hours to Portugal and our first stop at Tavira. We are at a campsite which is pretty much European standard but Moroccan prices so pretty happy with it.
We are thinking of everyone back home. Thoughts to Aunty Chris who wasn't too well this week but on the mend I understand and those in Christchurch with the flooding which it seems resulted in Nicky's Grandma being rescued by boat.
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